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Abigail

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[25 Oct 2004|02:40pm]
Thanks for the input, girls! You really helped me make up my mind regarding trim. Navy blue - I was leaning towards it anyhow. ;) And five rows of trim on the skirt. Kara, when I read your post, I admit I had a private little "*moan* But I wasn't really serious about five! At least, I don't think I was. Five rows?!?! Nooo!" moment there. :)

And then I thought about it a bit more, and I've decided that I like it muchly. :) Since I'm tall, there will be a 'great expanse of skirt,' and the five rows will look better than, say, a skimpy three, which would probably just emphasise the length.

Actually, I made a sketch of what the finished dress should look like, and it is right here under the cut! )

Well, I'll never win any awards in art! =) Anyway, back to the dress...I thought the red belt might be a nice finishing touch. :) And now that I've finished deciding on how to trim everything, I need to puzzle over the bodice treatment. Long waist, to be tucked into the skirt? Fitted waist finished with a waistband? Fitted waist with a gathered peplum? Or fitted waist with a fitted peplum? I'm leaning towards the last one, but I don't know if it is authentic or not. Ah, well, more research for me!
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[24 Oct 2004|02:36pm]
So much for my grand, ambitious plans! New research every week, wasn't it? *laughs* Oh, well! It was not to be, I suppose. Only chemises have been researched, and as for corsets...well, they don't look like they'll be happening anytime soon. :) Maybe someday.

But it hasn't been all laziness on the sewing front. If you've been with me from the beginning, you may recall that the original plans for my "sailor outfit" were to make it in striped cotton, a la Anne of Avonlea. I have now decided against that, and will be making it in white cotton pique. I've actually just finished the skirt yesterday. I'm very pleased with how it came out! I altered my basic, fitted walking skirt pattern to have gathers in the center back (think of the Folkwear walking skirt pattern) and I think it came out quite nicely. :) The pique was a dream to work with - it has such a lovely hand and drape.

Quick trim poll here:
What colour should the contrasting trim be? Navy blue, or red?
How many rows of contrasting trim at the skirt hem? 1, 3, or 5?
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[09 Sep 2004|11:22pm]
I went fabric shopping today, and came up with an incredible find - the perfect fabric for Anne's "Cow Chasing" dress! *squee* It's not identical to the fabric used in Anne's, it's just a woven blue and white stripe, but I love it. It's 100% cotton, lovely drape....what more could I want? Anyway, I don't want a carbon copy of Anne's gown, but want to put my own spin on it.

(Rissa, I know you're planning on making this dress for the get-together - I'm afraid that you'll have a duplicate now!)

And, I hadn't planned on posting this, but a nearly empty Semagic screen in front of you has a way of making you want to fill it up! =) Well, I tossed out an idea a week or so ago - just a casual idea, you understand. I didn't really think it would come to anything, but my mom's been egging me on a bit, and expanding on the original idea. My idea was to get President Bush's signature for a memory quilt for myself, but now it looks as though I'll be making lap quilts for wounded soldiers. :) Basically, I'm going to stitch up a few squares and send them to the President with a letter explaining what they'll be for, etc, and asking him if he can just sign his name and/or write a short encouraging message on the quilt block. So what do you think? Our president is such a great guy - I'm proud to be living under his government. I'm sure he won't refuse - that is, I hope so! I'm also considering sending a few blocks for Mrs. Bush to sign as well. I absolutely adore our first lady as well! =)

(I think I may wait until after the election. He (they) must be so busy right now, and it might be best to wait until all the hassle is over and they're settled down once more in the White House.

(Wouldn't you, if you were a wounded soldier, be happy to recieve a lap quilt inscribed with a message from our President?) =)
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[15 Aug 2004|07:54pm]
[ mood | creative ]

Yesterday...I felt like sewing. So, I sewed. And, as a result, I now have a buttonless Edwardian era shirtwaist completed.

It's amazing how much difference a half inch can make! The sleeves were kind of tight 'round the elbow and lower arm, so I ripped out the half-inch seams and made them a scant quarter inch, thus adding a half inch of ease. They're still a bit tight, especially when I lift my arms, but not too uncomfortably so. The underarm seems a bit tight as well - I hope I didn't put them in backwards. I did match up the notches and dots and whatnot...

Oh, yes. I altered the pattern rather drastically. :) (Of course...) I left out the 'Gibson Tucks' and changed it around to open in the front instead of the back, which is handier for me! At any rate, I shan't need my own personal maid! *grin* Also, altered the waist stay a bit - it's on the outside, instead of the inside, and it ties in the front. (I should probably sew on hooks and eyes, though - it'd be more authentic, I b'lieve)

Anyway, I rather like the result. The fabric is a red and white striped chambray, and 'tis very pretty, if I do say so myself. I call it my 'candy-stripe' shirtwaist! Pity the digital camera isn't working, I could show pictures of it with my black walking skirt...

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Research: Chemises [30 Jul 2004|09:50pm]
[ mood | mellow ]

The Civil War era has always been my forte, but lately - well, to be frank, I'm hardly interested in that era anymore. It might be the Gibson Vacation, but I've recently gotten very excited about the Edwardian era! :) The clothing is so feminine and graceful - barring, of course, gentlemen's clothing...but I've no reason to become an authority on that subject, have I? *grin* I think I've got the general "look" of the era down pat , but a few days ago, I realized that I knew next to nothing about Edwardian era chemises - and undergarments in general. So I set out on a research adventure. :) Over the next few weeks, I'll be researching one area of clothing at a time, from the skin out, and posting my findings.

This week we have chemises. :) I'll start off by posting links to original chemises - but beware, most of them are from websites that sell vintage clothing, so if the article gets sold, the link might not work. :)

Original Chemises:

French Handkerchief Linen Chemise
Chemise with Knitted Lace
Batiste Chemise
Strapless Evening Chemise
Chemise

Period photographs and fashion prints.:

Chemise A - with corset
Chemise B - with corset
Chemise C - with corset
Chemise D - with corset
Chemise E - with corset
Chemise F- with corset
Chemise G - with corset
Chemise - View 4
Cotton Chemise
Chemises from 1892
1892 Chemises II

Vintage and Contemporary quotes:

"By the end of the century, the chemise had become a very simply cut, sleeveless garment with narrow shoulders and a round, square, V or heart-haped neckline. It was, however, very highly decorated with lace and embroidery and made of fine cotton or linen and even silk. The evening chemise worn with sleeveless, decolletee dresses, was cut straight across the top, with separate narrow shoulder straps. This style became increasingly popular during the early twentieth centry."

"Most of the newest shapes are cut plain, that is to say without any sleeves, and are mounted on a broad band of embroidery or lace; shaped either round or like a V; this is finished off with trou-trou embroidery or lace edging,, threaded with narrow ribbon, which draws the band in to the right size; many again in this shape have no bands either round the neck or sleeves, but are simply finished off with a narrow embroidered edging, and the front of the chemise is frequently hand- somely embroidered." - Myra's Journal, 1889 (Hey, it's almost Edwardian era!)

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[29 Jul 2004|09:44pm]
[ mood | happy ]
[ music | Charles Ives ]

I did finish the embroidery after all. It turned out all right, I guess - I like it, but it's nothing really spectacular. I still don't know what's wrong with the digital camera, or I'd post a picture. :)

Mostly, though, I've been working on my Edwardian Straight-fronted corset. I cut out all the pieces yesterday, using the smallest size but lengthening the waist approximately one-and-a-half inches, but not making any muslin. Bad Abby! Today I sewed them up, flat-felling the seams instead of doing them the iffy-and-really-odd way specified in the pattern, which is the Past Patterns one, by the way. It looked beautiful! *grin* I've sewed in the busk, and all that's left is the lacing eyelets, the boning casings, and then binding the top and bottom off. I think I really like single-layer corsets! And yes, it does fit. I suppose I'm lucky that way, but I've never had to do any sizing in any of the corsets I've made - about three. :)

I'd be hopeful and say it'd be done by tomorrow, were it not for the fact that I don't have any boning, and need some more twill for the boning casings. Unless I decide to use pima cotton, but I'm not sure how sturdy that would be.

Those of you who draft patterns, where do you get the paper? I'm desperately searching for something wide enough that I won't have to tape nine sheets together in order to get one bodice front pattern traced out. I suppose tissue paper might work, in a pinch, but I'm really looking for something sturdier.

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Project: Embroidered Shirtwaist A [27 Jul 2004|01:58pm]
[ mood | accomplished ]

Pattern: Past Patterns #404, Edwardian Gibson Tuck Blouse

Journal:
My pattern arrived yesterday. I don't know if it's a new thing, printing the on tissue paper instead of the heavy stuff nowadays, but I don't think I like it much. Definately not very sturdy.

I traced the provided embroidery pattern onto my white pima cotton, and started embroidering it. As of right now, I am just about halfway done. My stem stitching certainly isn't the greatest, but unless you get really close, you can't really tell. I hope. :) If all goes well, I'll have the blouse front embroidery done today, and perhaps the collar and sleeves as well.

I'd post pictures, only our digital camera hasn't been working lately. I think it might be low batteries...

-*-*-

Does anyone know where I might be able to obtain collar boning? That zig-zag stuff. Or is there a substitute, perhap?

3 comments|post comment

Project: Silk Daygown [18 Jul 2004|10:36am]
Inspiration:
(Diana's Going Away Gown)

I've only ever found one picture of.this dress, and it's at the wonderful In Timely Fashion website. Of course I'm thrilled to have found at least the one picture - but I was wondering, might anyone know of any more pictures on the Internet? (Oh, I just remembered, there's one tiny little picture on Eras of Elegance)

Materials:
I don't have anything yet, but I'm planning to buy some (china silk) from Silk Connection. I think I'll get the 5mm, but if anyone thinks I should get something else , please advise. I've not much experience with silk! Suggestions for lace and other materials are also appreciated! :D I would have to dye the silk, of course - I've never done that before, actually, so it will be an experience!- but that means I can get just about any colour and shade I want! Right now I'm trying to decide between pale, spring green, light pink, light peach, or lavender.

Patterns:
I daresay it will be easy enough to alter #404 Past Patterns' Edwardian Gibson Tuck (blouse) to work for the bodice. And for the skirt, my favorite standby, Butterick (3418). Or if I want to go with a 3-gore skirt like the original, I might draft something up from marquise.de.

Progress:
None, aside from the planning. :)
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How to Make a Rat [16 Jul 2004|02:59pm]
Technically, this is a sewing journal, but if the subject matter relates to the challenge - in this case, getting ready for the Gibson Girls Gala in MN, I shall post it. And this post is all about hair. Yes, hair. Gibson Girl hairstyles, to be precise.

My hair is long (waist length) and very thin and fine. As a result, I have never never never been able to get a perfect pompadour to stay up for any longer than five minutes, despite gallons of hairspray and the same of hairgel (my brother's 'super-hold-will-hold-through-anything' stuff) But, today I have had a breakthrough! I think I've finally got it to work, with the help of a nice fat rat, a million hairpins, and stategic drying of the hair the night before. Anyway, here are instructions to make a rat:

How to Make a Rat:

Materials:
1 pair of womens' stockings/pantyhose, in a colour approximate to that of your hair.
Tulle, maybe half a yard

Cut a leg off the pair of stockings. Stuff it with tulle until it's nice and plump, depending on how high you want your pompadour to be - I like mine to be just a little puff, nothing really dramatic. Sew the short ends together, forming a circle. Fluff it up, and there you go - a beautiful rat. ;P

Now, I haven't quite figured out how to get it to stay in place - mine always migrates. Hairpins or haircombs, I presume. If you figure something out before I do, let me know.
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[16 Jul 2004|12:16pm]
[ mood | inspired ]

The Challenge:
Create five day's worth of Edwardian era garments, from underwear to outerwear.

The Fabrics:
Current Inventory:


  • 3 yards white pima cotton (shirtwaist)

  • 2 yards blue and white chambray cotton stripe (shirtwaist)

  • 5 yards red and white chambray cotton stripe (shirtwaist)

  • 10 yards dotted Swiss (lingerie dress)

  • 3 yards black wool (coat)

  • 1 yard black cotton velveteen (lapels and collar for coat)

  • 7 yards black cotton sateen (lining for same)



The Patterns:
Various patterns from Folkwear, Past Patterns, the Internet, and the 'Big-3'
6 comments|post comment

In Introduction [11 Jul 2004|11:59am]
[ mood | cheerful ]

Welcome to my sewing journal! :) This, obviously, will be where I post about my sewing endeavors. And post pictures of said projects. And just ramble about sewing. That sort of thing. ;)

And now I think I shall make some icons.

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